Saturday, September 7, 2013

Sun Dried Tomatoes (without the sun :-)

Over the last month, most of us have hopefully seen a ripening up of our heirlooms.  One of my favourite  heirlooms is the Principe Borghese.  Originally from Italy, this heirloom is know best for being the "sun drying" tomato because it deep tomatoey taste that intensifies during the drying process.  While a great characteristic steeped in tradition, this heirloom is very versatile plant.  First, its productivity is excellent.  Its fruit is un-blemmished and very rarely cracks.  The taste has a wonderful balance of acid and sweet that is true to an old world heirloom tomato.  Below is a picture of my son who got his hands on a bag of freshly harvested fruit.  Needless to say, he enjoys the Principe Borghese straight off the vine.




Fresh is great, but I had to try sun-drying this heirloom in the true tradition of Italian sun dried tomatoes.  So I picked a bakers dozen, cut them in half and laid them out on baking sheets to let them dry.  In a couple of days, I should have beautiful, sun dried tomatoes.  Unfortunately I quickly realized that it might not be as easy as the term "sun dried" sounds.  With a quick internet search, I learned sun drying is specific to a low humidity climate which we do NOT observe here in SW Ontario.  Quickly, my sun dried endeavours wilted with mold and flies... I had to figure something else out.

The Oven
While I hate using the oven during the summer, it can maintain a very consistent low temperature that a bbq cannot.  I also am lucky enough to have a convection option which makes it very simple to circulate air for the purpose of drying.

Here is how I did it:

1: Wash and cut a bowl of your finest Principe Bourghese tomatoes.


2: Set your oven to approx. 60 degrees Celsius or 140 degrees Fahrenheit.  Depending on your oven you may need to increase or decrease the set temperature.  If you do not have a convection oven you could wedge the door open to create some air flow to help dry out the tomatoes.  Inevitably, the temperature will drop and you will need to turn it up.  If you have a convection oven you're set.  In both cases it is advisable to monitor the oven for the first hour or so you achieve the desired temperature.

 

3: Once your oven has warmed up.  Set your sliced heirlooms on a baking sheet and fire them in the oven.









Finally:  Hurry up an wait  


After 2 hours

After 4 hours


Try to maintain the oven temperature

10 hours later your sundried tomatoes should have the
consistency of a raisin.  Chewy with an intense tomato
flavour.  You can store them in a ziplock bag for months.

Wednesday, August 14, 2013

Its been a while

I have to say, its been a long couple of months since I last posted.  Unfortunately my attention has been devoted to a ruptured Achilles tendon that I managed to snap playing touch football.  While its has been a difficult couple of months, (much of which has been off my feet) I've realized how much I enjoy being out in the garden.  Against DR's orders, I have managed to do some gardening and got many of my heirlooms in before "the snap heard round the field".  The little bit of gardening I have done has rendered a messy yet productive garden full of cucumbers, spinach, broccoli, beans, herbs, lettuce and of course... heirloom tomato plants. While we haven't had the most ideal tomato growing spring and summer here in SW Ontario, many of us are starting to see our heirlooms begin to mature.  This is the time of year that our spring garden labouring begins to pay off.  All in all, I'm happy to be back blogging just in time for harvest season.  Below are a few pics I took towards the end of July.

Black Crimson potted heirloom July 24, 2013

My out of control heirloom Cucumber plant

Hawaiian Currant starting to ripen

Red Robin dwarf heirloom with my less than
dwarf Coon dog "Daisy" in the background
Jaune Flamme heirloom potted





Jaune Flamme late July

Saturday, June 1, 2013

Tomato Problems

I was looking my heirlooms the other day and saw some aphids on the leaves.  It's heating up and problems are starting to arise.  This article will help to identify common tomato problems and solutions.  The good thing, heirloom tomatoes have been around for a long time.  My very simple and unscientific theory is that heirloom strains have been coping with these problems for decades and centuries... they have built up a bit of a resistance to many issues.


Growing fresh tomatoes is one of the true joys of the vegetable gardener. But tomatoes can suffer from all kinds of diseases and pests. Problems growing tomatoes are often the result of weather conditions and small predators lurking under leaves and in the soil. This is something that is out of the gardeners control. Tomato diseases are rarely fatal, if the proper management is employed. It is important to catch any tomato disease early, before it spreads to all of your tomato plants and possibly other plants. Mulching is the most effective way to limit disease.


1. Blossom End Rot

Symptom : This is a common problem with homegrown tomatoes. It initially appears as a depressed, leathery, brownish area the size of a dime to a half dollar on the blossom end of the fruit.

Cause: It is caused by a calcium deficiency coupled with wide fluctuations in available moisture. Training and pruning the tomato vines may also increase blossom end rot.

Remedy: Remove the affected fruit so other fruits on the plant will develop normally. Keep the plants well watered. Mulch to maintain a more uniform moisture supply. Avoid cultivating, or hoeing, near the roots of tomato plants. Some gardeners like to add crushed eggshells to the transplant hole to fortify calcium intake.


2. Yellow Leaves

Symptom: Yellow, uncurled leaves

Cause: If yellow, uncurled leaves appear at the base of a tomato plant, it may just be a sign of the plant aging and beginning to die off from the bottom up. It may also be caused by a nitrogen deficiency in the soil. On occasion, other factors may cause yellow leaves including pest, fungus and bacteria infestations.These three causes usually produce other symptoms besides plain, uncurled, yellow leaves at the base of the plant. For example, if the leaves are turning yellow or brown higher up on the plant, it may be a sign of early blight. Have your soil tested at a local nursery to confirm the nitrogen-deficiency diagnosis.

Remedy: If the soil does have a nitrogen deficiency, supplement the soil with well-rotted manure or compost, both of which are high in nitrogen. You can also apply a nitrogen-rich fertilizer.


3. Flowers Form But Drop Before Fruit Develops

Symptom: Tomato flowers fall off prematurely causing very little or no fruit to actually develop.

Cause:"Blossom Drop" is usually caused when the tomato plant experiences a sudden change in the weather, typically when night temperatures are lower than 13 degrees C, when day temperatures are higher than 35 degrees C, or when night temperatures remain above 24 degrees C. Hot drying winds and a sudden lack of moisture for the plant may intensify the problem.

Remedy: Add mulch to keep the soil moisture even. Use TOMATO BLOSSOM SET SPRAY, an all-natural plant hormone that helps blossoms set fruit in spite of poor weather conditions, producing larger, meatier tomatoes with fewer seeds. Use early in the season and get tomatoes up to three weeks earlier. Spray when tomato flowers are fully open. Improving weather conditions may also solve the problem without action.


4. Shiny, Sticky And Deformed Leaves (Aphids)

Symptom: Leaves are deformed, sometimes yellow, and appear to have a shiny, sticky substance on them. Young tomato plants are especially vulnerable to this "small" problem. Do not confuse this with "rolled" leaves which is a normal occurrence and not harmful to many tomato plants.

Cause: Aphids are small, pear-shaped insects that congregate on the top growth or undersides of leaves. Aphids damage tomatoes by sucking plant sap and excreting a sticky substance on the foliage and fruit. Inspect the deformed leaves or normal leaves in the vicinity and you will be able to see these insects. Whiteflies and spider mites are also nearly invisible insects that can cause similar symptoms and can be treated as described below. Spider mites cause many small yellow specks and fine webs on leaves. Whiteflies will actually take flight when you brush the plant. They may appear as dust or fine residue shaken off the plant.

Remedy: Use NEEM OIL or INSECTICIDAL SOAP CONCENTRATE to control aphids or whiteflies. Removing weeds around the tomato plants will also help.


5. Tomato Skin Splitting Or Cracking

Symptom: The skin of the fruit develops sudden large cracks

Cause: Splitting or cracking typically happens when the fruit experiences accelerated growth, which can be brought on by a sudden increase in moisture after being too dry, like a sudden summer rain after dry periods. Cracking also may occur when the fruit is overripe.
Remedy: The good news is that splitting or cracking does not affect the flavor and the tomato can still be eaten, however unsightly it may appear. To avoid the problem, provide consistent moisture to the plant.


6. Early Blight - Brown Patches On Leaves

Symptom: Black-brownish spots on plant leaves; leaves drop off; sunburned fruits.

Cause: Early Blight is a fungus that survives during the winter on old vines. Cleaning up old vines from the prior season, rotating crops and spacing plants properly to allow for good air circulation are good first steps in avoiding this problem.

Remedy: The preventative measures should be considered first, ie crop rotation and cleaning up debris from prior growing seasons. If you suspect your plants have Early Blight, remove all diseased stems and foliage and dispose of in a trash bag. Do not add to compost pile. BONIDE ALL PURPOSE GARDEN DUST is an effective, organic way to control the disease if caught in the early stages.


7. Late Blight - Brown, Dry, Papery Leaves

Symptom: Water-soaked patches on leaves that turn brown, dry and papery are a sign of late blight. Fruit and stems might be spotted or have blackened areas.

Cause: Late Blight is caused by a fungus that is favored by wet weather and whose spores can travel great distances and infect large areas.

Remedy: The preventative measures should be considered first, crop rotation, proper spacing of plants and pruning to maintain good air circulation around plants. If you suspect your plants have Late Blight, remove all diseased stems and foliage and dispose of in a trash bag. If the area is severely infected, removing all plants and disposing in the trash may be the only solution.


8. Fusarium and Verticillium Wilt

Symptom: Fusarium Wilt causes leaves on one branch of infected plant to wilt and turn yellow. Verticillium Wilt first appears as yellowing between the major veins on mature leaves.

Cause: Both are caused by a fungal infestation. The fungus is inherent in the plant and is not caused or affected by external sources such as weather or care.

Remedy: Unfortunately there is no treatment for a plant infected with Fusarium or Verticillium Wilt. It will spread rapidly through the plant and eventually kill it. The best remedy is to quickly dispose of the entire plant in the trash. Do not add to compost.


9. Nematodes - The (Almost) Invisible Insect

Symptom: Nematodes live in the soil and cause swelling of the plant root, stunted plants and discoloured plant leaves.

Cause: Root-knot nematodes are soil-born microscopic eelworms.

Remedy: The bad news...there is no treatment for an existing nematode infestation. The good news...the affected plants can still grow and produce edible fruit. Preventative measures to stop nematodes in the future include selecting varieties labeled with "N" and planting marigolds with your tomatoes. Many varieties of marigolds, including' Nema-gone', 'Golden Guardian', or 'Tangerine', release a chemical into the soil that kills nematodes. (Left plant normal, Right Infected)


10. Tomato Hornworm

Symptom: Chewed up plant leaves and damaged fruits that are still unripe, huge increase of garden hornets.

Cause: Tomato hornworms are large, green-grayish caterpillars that feed off of tomato fruits and plants.

Remedy: They blend very well with surrounding foliage but they can be extremely large and once you spot them, you'll wonder how you ever missed them. We're talking big enough to saddle these big boys up and let the kids ride around the yard on them!. Pick them off and dispose of them by hand. If infested there is organic caterpillar control.

Thursday, May 23, 2013

Cover up your heirlooms for the next Couple Days

The forecast for the next couple of days shows some pretty cold nights.  It would be best to cover up your heirlooms with a bucket, tarp or frost protector during the night time.  Friday and Saturday we will be selling frost protectors at all the markets for $5 each or 3 for $12.  They are re-usable for years and very helpful when getting an early start on the growing season.  Insulating the your plants from the cold and more importantly, the wind is imperative.  Again, if you purchased your heirlooms from The Tomato Patch, they have been "hardened off" acclimatized to the outside conditions.  But, it is still suggested to cover them up at night.  It will keep the soil warm and plant growing throughout this cold snap.

London Ontario Forecast

Good Luck
Mark
TheTomatoPatch.ca

Sunday, May 12, 2013

Cold Snap in SW Ontario... Protect those Heirlooms

Just a reminder that 7 day forecast shows some pretty cold weather over the next couple of days.  If you have planted your heirlooms be sure to cover them up with a bucket and maybe even an old towel or blanket.  If you purchased your heirlooms from The Tomato Patch, they have been hardened off and acclimatized to outdoor weather so they can take a little punishment. BUT, still cover them up over the next couple days.
Here is the forecast for London ON

Tuesday, May 7, 2013

Companion Plants for your Heirloom Tomatoes

Many of us took the opportunity this past weekend to plant our heirloom tomatoes.  If your tomatoes are a bigger part of a garden, below are some plants that do and don't do well with your heirlooms.

Companion Plants

Carrots: Carrots work well tomatoes because they share space well. The carrots can be planted when the tomatoes are still quite small, and can be happily growing and ready to harvest by the time the tomato plants start to take over the space.

Carrots
Onions


Onions, Chives, and Garlic: Members of the onion family are beneficial to plant with many types of crops due to the pungent odor they emit. This helps deter many insect pests.









Borage

Borage: Improves growth and flavor and is said to help deter tomato hornworm.




Asparagus: Asparagus and tomatoes are good neighbors. Asparagus puts on growth very early in the season, and the tomato plants fill in after asparagus has been harvested. Also, tomatoes help repel asparagus beetle.
Asparagus

Marigolds

Marigold: Helps deter harmful nematodes from attacking tomatoes. The pungent odor can also help confuse other insect pests. To deter nematodes, the best practice is to grow the marigolds, then chop and till them into the soil at the end of the season.




Nasturtium: Help deter whitefly and aphids.
Nasturtium


Basil: Growing tomatoes and basil together increases the vigor and flavor of both crops as well as repelling insects like mosquitos. It is said that basil may sweeten the taste of your heirlooms.
Basil











Spinach, Lettuce, Arugula: These are also "good neighbor" crops for tomatoes. They stay fairly small, and will grow better in the heat of summer when shaded by the growing tomato plants.



Parsley

Mint & Parsley: Improve the health and flavor of tomatoes. Think about container planting Mint as it can aggressively spread if left un-checked.







What Not to Plant with Tomatoes:
Brassicas:  Tomatoes and all members of the Brassicas family (Cabbage, Broccoli, Cauliflower) repel each other and will exhibit poor growth when planted together.
Brassicas
Corn: Tomato fruit worm and corn ear worm are nearly identical, and planting these two crops together increases the possibility that you will attract one (or both) of these pests.
Potatoes: Planting tomatoes and potatoes together makes potatoes more susceptible to potato blight.

Dill & Fennel: Inhibits the growth of tomatoes.
Dill

Sunday, May 5, 2013

"Hardening Off" your heirloom

"Harding Off" is the process of acclimatizing your heirloom tomato to outdoor weather.  This process should be done gradually over a week or two, so not to stress the plant and have it die.  Good News!  This has been done for all heirlooms you purchase at TheTomatoPatch.ca  The plants you have purchased have been exposed to outdoor temperatures everyday (except for the very cold, windy days).  So prior to planting, you can leave your plant outside as long as the temp is not below 10 degrees C at night with wind.  Better yet, bring them inside and put them back out during the day.

"I've left my heirlooms in the window for a week or two... are they still hardened off?"
 If you have kept your heirlooms inside for a week or so... you will have to re-acclimatize them to the outdoors.  Start off with putting them out for a couple of hours out of peak sun or preferably on a cloudy day.  Over the following week leave the heirlooms out longer and longer.  They may droop a little, especially Siberian Pink Honey (thanks for the feedback on that!)  Bring them inside as it is a sign that they are being stressed a little too hard.  If you have used a frost protector and already planted your heirloom, you may experience similar problems.  Acclimatize the plant by opening up the top of the protector when there is no chance of night frost.  You can remove the protector during periods of warmth but be very carful when putting it back on... this should probably be a two person job.
Sun Scald:  Sun Scald may occur on sunny days.  This is your heirloom getting a sun burn.  Like us, some heirlooms are prone to burn more than other.  Any potato leaf variety of plant (Prudence Purple) are comparable (in people terms) to having fair skin... they burn very easily.  I've also found Mortgage Lifters and Yellow Sub heirlooms to get get sun scald very easily as well.  Early on in the re-hardening process, keep them out of peak hour, direct sunlight.  

Tomato Sun Scald
Sunburn


When can we plant our Heirlooms?

Last Frost
  Around here, May 24th weekend is usually considered to be the day we plant annuals.  We do this because statistically the threat of frost is lower.  Below is a frost map from the Ministry of Agriculture roughly corresponding to Ontario's climate zones.




Zone
Frost-Free Period 
(Average in Days)
Average Date of 
Last Spring Frost
Average Date of 
First Fall Frost
A
170-190April 25October 20
B
160-170April 30October 13
C
150-170May 3October 8
D
130-165May 11October 1
E
125-145May 17September 26
F
115-125May 24September 22
G
100-115May 27September 17
H
100-110June 3September 16
I
90-100June 7September 9

Now these are just averages.  The department of Agriculture goes onto explain that there will be 50% chance of frost on the dates stated in the above table.  (1 in 2 years there will be frost on that date)  It then decreases to a 25% chance 7 days after the list date, dropping again to a 10% chance, 14 days from the date. (full article) So, can we plant our tomatoes on the May 24 weekend... yes, statistically we should be ok.  We do need to be carful to watch for a chance of frost for the following 2 weeks after May 24th.  I do seem to remember a late frost a few years back on June 4th.
The work around frost:  For a small amount of money you can purchase a frost protector for your heirloom.  The basic concept is once filled with water, your protector will act as a greenhouse keeping the plant and soil warm and sheltered from the elements.  These protectors are said to extend the growing season of your annuals by up to 8 weeks.
Last frost is not the only concern when planting your heirloom.